Cam, intake, inj. match?

[19stang]

I am currently running a Lunati cam (512 lift, 281 duration, 110 lobe separation) GT40 intake, 24# inj., TFS high port heads, and stock rotating assembly. I was thinking about buying a Victor 5.0 intake and 30# inj. Would this improve things? What are my limiting components? What are the hp cut offs for 24, 30, 36# injectors? Is there a better intake?

[1slo5.0]

You will not benefit from a Victor intake and/or 30lb injectors with your current combination. Stick with the 24lbers for now. If you add some compression, cam and RPM then the Victor and bigger injectors will help you.

[Kool Rock Steady]

I'd get the holley or rpm 2 also. Just like people are saying. The stuff is too big for your combo.

Get long tubes with x pipe or 65/70 mm tb with 80mm maf ect. with 4.10 gears

[NO CHANCE]

You have too much head for your combo...

[Kool Rock Steady]

As long as the heads aren't ported they are fine. Hi-port TFS was/is the best head ever made. It can go on a stock motor and also support a 7 sec pro 5.0 car too.

MM&FF did a review on them back in the day and put it on a stock 5L and picked up about .7 in the 1/4 with nothing else done to the engine

[19stang]

The TFS heads have tons of proting done to them. I already have long tubes , 4.10, & Xpipe along with mass air, throttle body, EGR, fuel press. reg. and 255 pump, and air pump and AC are deleted. I plan to build a solid roller stroker for the car this winter. I plan to stay NA and spin it to 7000 rpm. I guess the Victor may not be what I want now but would be in the future. What is the best intake for 7000+ rpm NA motors?

[Kool Rock Steady]

Well I would think a Victor intake would be good if you have a stroker and want to have 7k+ rpm's. Another option would be one of the Victor Jr carb intakes converted to mass air.

[1slo5.0]

You need more cam if you want to spin 7000rpm and make power doing it.

[MAT88GT]

spinning that combo to 7k will yeild you nothing...the heads are capable (if they really are heavily worked) but the cam wont allow for optimum filling

heavy porting on high ports will yeild you damn near 200cc of intake port, with a large cross section (for a 302), 300/200cfm in/ex over .550, and dogshit for velocity in the operating range of that cam

repeated blasts to 7k on a hydro roller cam with a stock bottom end is asking for trouble...speaking from personal experience here

[19stang]

More cam will be part of the new short block this winter. Can a stock block with main support, forged internals, and light weight pistons handle 7000 rpm?

[MAT88GT]

for the money you'd sink into a forged 306 rotating assembly you could have built a 6k rpm stroker that would last longer and make better use of the parts you have

[19stang]

I have already made the investment in the big heads, valvetrain, fuel system, exhaust, and intake. My TFS heads well exceed 200 cc on the intake. They were set up for a 331 stroker breathing at 7000 rpm. I got a real good deal on them already set up. I would like to use them with out breaking the bank.

[dave bandt]

My first comment is that 110 LSA is too wide unless you have a stick. If it's an auto car a 106 would be much better. As far as the other cam specs....I don't know if i agree with everyone else here. I ran a Crower cam with almost identical specs for 7 years in a 306 with 10:1. I shifted at 7100 and went through the traps at 7300. The shortblock was basically stock....just ARP rod bolts. I ported the Performer RPM heads myself and probably did more harm than good because i just hogged everything out. I also ran a flat solid with 0.56x int/ 0.579" exh in the same motor for a while. I saw no loss going to the smaller cam with 0.512" of lift. I don't think the motor had enough compression to take advantage of the bigger cam....cuz I know that the heads and intake weren't holding it back.

With that said....I'm in agreement that a nicely ported set of High Ports is too much for a fairly stock 306. A turbo/blower or stroker kit is going to be needed to get them to work decent. Nitrous likes big ports too.....

That's my $0.02.....

[19stang]

The car is a 5 spd and works well with the 110 lobe. I just want to spin it to 7000 rpm to take advantage of the big heads and possibly the Victor intake for a little more hp.

[1slo5.0]

More cam will be part of the new short block this winter. Can a stock block with main support, forged internals, and light weight pistons handle 7000 rpm?


I have balanced,forged, lightweight internals in my stock block and I spin 7500 on a regular basis. You can do it for a while but don't depend on it to stay together for ever. I have a Dart block sitting on the sidelines for when and if this block breaks.

[Kool Rock Steady]

With the heads and cam you are wanting I'd also like to add make some good compression on that thing like 12.1 or more. JMHO. Stock block won't like the hi rpms very long. I'd get a mexican/sportsman block atleast!

[Kool Rock Steady]

I think sportsmans are rated up to 600 hp.

Sorry to go off thread but I would like to know what Randy @ PER thinks of this topic and I would think that filling the block with hard block or filler just makes it run hotter not stronger. What is your opinion on the main support?

[1slo5.0]

I wish I would have filled my block :sad:

[MAT88GT]

you don't lose any cooling by half filling...the heat at the bottom of the cylinders (thus block) is unimportant compared to the top end of the engine....you only lose capacity and latent time, easily made up by a larger rad

though filling will help with cylinder stability, it isn't going to do **** for weak mains...adding a girdle will help with cap stiffness (supposedly), tossing in main studs increases retention, but thin bulkheads don't do much to anchor those bodies down (or up!)

[Kool Rock Steady]

The main support is a good idea but I've seen people who overpower the block and it's split by the cam bearings. Also they didn't have a main support so it could have broken there just as easy.

I see the DSS ad's say a stock block is good to 650 with their main support system. BS! A few might make it for a litle while but most won't last and be reliable

[PER Race Engines]

hey
when i have filled blocks ,they run cooler (for racing not street ) and cylinder wall are stronger , on the main support we use both alum and steel , the steel one's help but the bulk head is still the weak spot thanks randy 815-254-2333

[Nick 1]

Thanks for joining us Randy !!!! :rockon: So you can't run a filled block on the street ????


Thanks

Nick 1

[Nick 1]

Thanks, Dan that's what I thought. :thumbs_up



Nick 1