Suspension GURU's Please

[Eddie Haskell]

http://www.midwestmustangassociation.com/vb3/photopost/data/500/45IMG_0166.JPG I did a bunch of work over the winter including adding CC plates and a manual R&P and now the steering wheel shakes speeds over 35, not all the time, I think it just depends on what each wheel is doing independant of the other. My question is:
Looking at the photo and seeing that the steering linkage is at an upward angle (both side are the same by the way) I think I need to level that out so they are straight across and get rid of that angle somehow? Offset bushings are one way but I don't think they would move the rack up far enough to fix it totally, bump steer kit would probably work but I don't really know if that would do what I'm looking for it to do, I'm not real familar with them, then there is the Steeda X-2 ball joint (this is an 88 Fox with 96 spindles, so they should fit) it looks like they would do what I'm looking for, I guess I'm looking for answers or suggestions on a fix before I open my wallett and start throwing money at it...AGAIN !!!:thud:

[1slo5.0]

I don't think the tie rod angle is causing your problem. I ran my car for a couple years with 2" lowering springs and never moved the rack. Check the basics. Rebalance the tires.....even if you know they have been balanced. Check the alignment. You have new style spindles, do you have the bushing needed for the ball joints to fit properly?

[Eddie Haskell]

I did the 5 lug conversion last year and everything was awesome! It would turn on a dime and not even breath hard, (I do have the spacers needed for the ball joints) Everything was great! Then as always "more is better" and then came the CC plates (which changed the geometry of everything) and the R&P. I want everything back to where it was, I have better components and know this thing will really perform if I get it right but as I stated it gets expensive buying front suspension parts because every time new components go in it needs a damn alignment. I agree with you to a certain extent because it used to work great without any problems with the stock components but now it sucks! It does have bumpsteer problems when going around rough corners which leads me to believe thats where the problem is, I think the geometry needs to be back to "level" so it can operate properly, I just want to know which way to go to accomplish the job the first time.

[1slo5.0]

Did you have it aligned after installing the rack and caster/camber plates? If so, was the alignment done properly? I don't want to take any credibility away from anyone, but I had a real hard time finding someone in my area that could align my car. I showed every shop the caster camber plates and they all looked at me funny. You would think that the plates make it easier to align the damn car but I don't know. If all you changed was the rack and caster/camber plates, then the problem has to be directly related to one of those items.

[Eddie Haskell]

I took it to Accurate alignment here in Appleton, I haven't heard anything bad about them. I think I need to find someone that deals with all the upgrades we do to these cars that "normal" people look at us and say "what the hell did you do that for?" I have an 88 with the spindles off of a 94-95 and the wheels off a 2001 it's no wonder it doesn't work :). It all works the same you just can't look it up in a book.

[dave bandt]

I'm with Darrell......i don't think the arm angle is your problem. That will give you bump steer issues.....like you alluded to. But it's not going to cause a vibration.

[Jesse James]

You mentioned you had the spacers for the ball joints.. When you switched spindles did the balljoints get replaced? Just curious. Kinda sounds like this may be part of the vibration issue. Last year I lowered a newer Cobra, the angles looked similar to the ones in your picture. I went with Steeda's X2 Balljoint kit "no spacers", and the bump steer kit. This brought the alignment adjustability back into factory specs. Good Luck