Inj & MAF ?

[quietflow]

I have the chance to buy a set of 30lb inj with a calibrated 80mm MAF, or a set of 24lb inj with a calibrated 75mm MAF for close to the same price. My question being will it be okay to run the 30lbs and the 80mm with TFS heads, stage 1 cam, and TFS intake until I get the blower on the car? Then are those going to be enough for that combo with a 5psi vortech? Thanks for all the help, I am still learning this blower stuff :banana:

[86merc]

Some companies like Pro-M will calibrate a blower mass air to be a little rich compaired to a N/A meter. I have had Pro-M meters re-calibrated before and it is $100. If you are planning on using a tunning device like a EFI PMS, TwEECer, DFI, etc, or even a chip you can use them to add fuel a N/A meter tune. Another easy and cheap way to add fuel is to use a FMU. Your best bet is to figure out what exactly you want to do with the car. The next thing is to figure out what you can afford. I have sold three sets of injectors off my car. I had 30's with it N/A, 42's & 55's with the blower. It gets old switching stuff out and trying to sell it (usually for a loss) to afford new parts.

The 30's might be a little much N/A. I think they will be fine with a blower with mild boost and a FMU or a chip. If you are planning on installing the blower in the near future I would say go with the 30's to save your self some hassle and money. But thats just my $.02

[quietflow]

Some companies like Pro-M will calibrate a blower mass air to be a little rich compaired to a N/A meter. I have had Pro-M meters re-calibrated before and it is $100. If you are planning on using a tunning device like a EFI PMS, TwEECer, DFI, etc, or even a chip you can use them to add fuel a N/A meter tune. Another easy and cheap way to add fuel is to use a FMU. Your best bet is to figure out what exactly you want to do with the car. The next thing is to figure out what you can afford. I have sold three sets of injectors off my car. I had 30's with it N/A, 42's & 55's with the blower. It gets old switching stuff out and trying to sell it (usually for a loss) to afford new parts.

The 30's might be a little much N/A. I think they will be fine with a blower with mild boost and a FMU or a chip. If you are planning on installing the blower in the near future I would say go with the 30's to save your self some hassle and money. But thats just my $.02

The car that the 80mm came off of was running a Kenne Bell. I plan to add the blower asap, but will it screw things up running the MAF that was calibrated for a blower? Maybe I will have to get the blower right away also. :thud:

[Greg@GLD]

I have been running 30's with smallvalve GT40X heads, TFS stage II cam and the 347.
30's are still within the realm of the stock EEC's ability to shorten the pulsewidth down to create the proper A/F ratio. It's when you go to a 38 or higher that the sotck EEC cannot shorten the pulsewidth enough and you run rich. If you do not tax the fuel system, (running N/A you won't) then it will not matter if you run 24's or 30's because the EEC will be able to handle either, provided the MAF is properly calibrated.

And 86Merc is correct-
Pro-M calibrates S/C meters richer.

[Kool Rock Steady]

I would get the 30's for now but when you get a blower the 30's might be maxed out if you make 400rwhp or more. go 30# with FMU when you install the blower.