Gear Install ?s

[xxsn0blindxx]

I'm starting to look at mods for my mustang and I think I'm going to do 4.10s first and get a Predator to recalibrate the speedo. I've never done rear end gears before, is this something that a noob can handle? I've done intermediate level work on cars in the past, the most difficult being swapping a remanufactured long block in my van. My mustang has 35k on it do I need to get an install kit and/or bearing kit with my gears? Does anybody know of a site with a step-by-step install guide?

[MILLERTIME5.0]

If you get FRPP gears they are easier to install. You don't have to change the carrier bearings, but I would. However it might be more than you want to take on. If you are off just a small amount you can do some big damage.

[DirtyMax]

Save yourself the headache and have a speed shop do it. Fast Times is one that alot of people have used in our area. They are a site sponsor so being a member gets you some $ off if I'm not mistaken.

[xxsn0blindxx]

Thanks, that's exactly the info I needed. Anybody know what Fast Times charges to install them? Can they correct the speedo if I don't get the predator, eventually I would like to get the full SCT setup but don't have the money to do all of it at once.

[DirtyMax]

I don't know what they charge. About 200 labor IIRC plus any parts you don't provide. But times change and so can prices, so I'd call. But at any rate, it's $$ well spent!!

[xxsn0blindxx]

Wausau is kind of a drive, but if its cheap enough it would be worth it. PM or email with a price and/or way for me to contact him. I'd probably have to wait until after I graduate in may to get up there.

[xxsn0blindxx]

This is starting to look more expensive than I was originally planning.

Gears $150-$200
Bearing kit $100
Install $200
Total around $500, maybe more

Would I be better getting a C&L plenum and MAC 75mm throttle body for $310? I can definitely install that myself. Are the performance gains from the 4.10s a big difference over the throttle body and plenum?

Eventually I will get the 4.10s, but I'm trying to get the best bang for the buck right now while keeping it under $500.

[portponies]

I have a friend selling a set of FMS 4.10 gears. PM me for his number if you are interested.

[upngo50]

Definitely do the gears first! Gears are definitely a great bang for the buck upgrade. Something that is immediately noticable the first time you drive after the install. Your butt with thank you.

If you stick with Ford gears the install is pretty straight forward because they use a MHD (Master Housing Dimension) method of installing there gears in factory production. You will need to have some of those tools that not every guy will have in their tool box however, just to measure everything out to make sure it is all good. The main two being a dial indicator & a pinion depth gauge. Plus a in/lb torque wrench vs. a ft/lb so measure the correct preload on the pinion bearing..

[1slo5.0]

FYI, Richmond makes Ford Racing gear sets....

[upngo50]

FYI, Richmond makes Ford Racing gear sets....

Great info! So does that mean when you buy a set of Richmond gears they will be dimensionally the same as the Ford gears and a person would have good success using the MHD method of installation?

[DirtyMax]

IMO, gears ARE the biggest bang for the buck.

[xxsn0blindxx]

Good to know, looks like I'll be saving up for a set of gears then.

[Ghost]

This is starting to look more expensive than I was originally planning.

Gears $150-$200
Bearing kit $100
Install $200
Total around $500, maybe more

Would I be better getting a C&L plenum and MAC 75mm throttle body for $310? I can definitely install that myself. Are the performance gains from the 4.10s a big difference over the throttle body and plenum?

Eventually I will get the 4.10s, but I'm trying to get the best bang for the buck right now while keeping it under $500.


I would get the gears over the plenum and TB set up, I would wait on that till later
one of the best bang for the buck in a 99+ 2v is gears

if your looking for a cheap mod I have a used mac prochamber just sitting around that I will let go for 75 and I would even bring it most of the way up for 100 :alc:

as for the speedo recal, fast times will not be able to do it, if your car is a 5-speed I would get a dallas mustang speed cal- and hold off on the tuner untill you have a lot more mods, and then get the SCT stuff

here is the order of stuff I would do for a mod motor

gears
mid pipe
U/d pullies
timing adj ( which you can sell when you get farther into your mods that you need a custom tune)

I will have a timing adj lying around in about 3 weeks if you want them I would sell them both (timing adj and mid pipe for 200 and i will bring it up)

then after those
the plenum and T/B combo

what are you looking to do with this car (goals) if they are anything like mine I have whole new list depending on what your looking for, but what I have above is what I would do for a fun street car

[xxsn0blindxx]

My car is an automatic. Will your Mac Prochamber fit an auto? If it does I am very interested in it. I'll probably get a Predator at the same time I do gears, so I won't need the timing advance kit. I basically want a daily-driveable low 13 to high 12 second car. I want to run those times in full street trim, i.e. no slicks or removing the front swaybar. This is what I had planned on doing, roughly in order:

4.10 gears
drag radials
Hooker longtubes and catted x-pipe, maybe BBK equal length shorties and an o/r x-pipe for ease and being able to swap catted stock h-pipe for emmissiosn testing
Catback
u/d pullies
high stall convertor
VT stage 1 or 2 cams
plenum and throttle body
SCT and a dyno tune

Somewhere along the way I would do some suspension work too, but I'm trying to figure out what the best setup is for a good blend of lowering, drag racing and handling. I don't want to do slicks because this is mostly a street driven vehicle and I'm only concerened with how fast it is the way it is driven every day.

[playpool]

FYI, Richmond makes Ford Racing gear sets....

i have richmond..i think they are the better set of gears. they seem stronger.. am i wrong??

[1slo5.0]

i have richmond..i think they are the better set of gears. they seem stronger.. am i wrong??


Before I left the parts business last year, I was talking with a Ford Racing representative and he was giving me the skinny on who produces parts for them. He said Richmond makes the gears, Edlebrock makes most of their intakes, blah blah blah.

[86merc]

FYI, Richmond makes Ford Racing gear sets....

Yes they do but to Fords specs. A Richmond gear set does not always have the same dimensions. I buy a lot of Power Transfer Parts gears (Blank boxed Richmond gears sets that are priced cheaper for install shops) and they usually are larger than the FMS gear.

I would say you can not go wrong with a gear install on a MOD motor car with a automatic.

[Ghost]

My car is an automatic. Will your Mac Prochamber fit an auto? If it does I am very interested in it. I'll probably get a Predator at the same time I do gears, so I won't need the timing advance kit. I basically want a daily-driveable low 13 to high 12 second car. I want to run those times in full street trim, i.e. no slicks or removing the front swaybar. This is what I had planned on doing, roughly in order:

4.10 gears
drag radials
Hooker longtubes and catted x-pipe, maybe BBK equal length shorties and an o/r x-pipe for ease and being able to swap catted stock h-pipe for emmissiosn testing
Catback
u/d pullies
high stall convertor
VT stage 1 or 2 cams
plenum and throttle body
SCT and a dyno tune

Somewhere along the way I would do some suspension work too, but I'm trying to figure out what the best setup is for a good blend of lowering, drag racing and handling. I don't want to do slicks because this is mostly a street driven vehicle and I'm only concerened with how fast it is the way it is driven every day.


All right where to start

If you are looking for a low 13- high 12 auto in full street trim
I would skip the 4.10s and go with 4.30s if you know you are going to stay all motor
but the rest of the mods look good, the only one I would wait on is the catback, you will not see much of a gain until the headers and mid pipe are done, the most you will get from it is sound

the only reason I said something about the T/A is because I was not aware that you had a auto

I would also make up your mind which cams you are going to get before getting the convertor that way you get the correct one for the cams your going to be using

its not going to be easy to get in the 12s on motor without taking weight out and having the car set up for drag racing just for the sake of helping I will list all of what I have

Motor/ exhaust
-------
Steeda T/a ( set at stock)
steeda U/D pullies
C&L plenum
Mac T/B
Mac Long tube headers
Densecharger inlet pipe
AFM 12in powerstack filter
BBK O/R h-pipe (I hate the sound)
Magnaflow muffs (dumped)

Drivetrain
----------
B&M shifter (going away soon for a pro 5.0)
Frpp driveshaft (HPM loop)
Frpp 4.10 gears
Moser 33 spline spool
Moser 33 spline axles and c-clip emils
T/a Diff cover

Susp./chas.
------
Front 90/10 lakewood struts
fox body 4 cy. front springs

rear
D&D upper and lower contol arms ( going away for UPR setup)
stock springs (changing to cut fox body v8 rears)
stock shocks (changing to lakewood 50/50)
D&D spec bearings axle side (upper)
MM subframe connectors

Rims/Tires
Front 15x4 draglites
Front tire 165r15 pepboys

Rear 15x8 draglites
Rear tire 275/50/15 MT drag radials


ECU
-----
SCT Chip (tuned by Ken B @ MD)


Power Adder
Nx wet kit (has not been used yet)

weight removed
rims and tires (took off about 80lbs)
driveshaft (took off 11 lbs)
wing (took off 8 lbs)
dog bone ( took off 8lbs)
tailpipes (took off 20lbs)
both front and rear swaybars (took off about 20lbs)
Qaud shocks (3 lbs)
rear seat delete ( 15 lbs)

race weight with my fat ass in the car 1/2 tank of gas is 3275 ( I weight 245)


The best I have run is a 13.2 @ 103.6 ( in bad air) but my biggest problem has been my 2 step is set at 4500 when it needs to be around 5500 cause right after I launch the car bogs down

All things I put were going away or being changed is things im doing before the track opens, the biggest thing im changing is im adding a set of VT cams
which with the cams and the 2 step being raised im looking for around a 12.8 @ 105+ on motor and hoping for a 11.9 on the bottle

if you would like drop me a pm with your email and I will send you a the vids I have of my car leaving the line :cool:

[Nick 1]

My car is an automatic. I basically want a daily-driveable low 13 to high 12 second car. I want to run those times in full street trim, i.e. no slicks or removing the front swaybar.
Somewhere along the way I would do some suspension work too, but I'm trying to figure out what the best setup is for a good blend of lowering, drag racing and handling. I don't want to do slicks because this is mostly a street driven vehicle and I'm only concerened with how fast it is the way it is driven every day.

Your best route to power in your application, would be a power adder. My vote would be a Turbo kit or a Supercharger. Then you'll need to upgrade rearend components & your trans. Next you'll need tires & maybe control arms to put the power to the ground.

Good Luck with your ride. :D

Welcome to MMA

[Ghost]

Your best route to power in your application, would be a power adder. My vote would be a Turbo kit or a Supercharger. Then you'll need to upgrade rearend components & your trans. Next you'll need tires & maybe control arms to put the power to the ground.

Good Luck with your ride. :D

Welcome to MMA


He can get where he wants on motor but it is going to take more then what is listed that he wants, but then again we all start off by only wanting this or that and that is where the fun starts

when I got mine I just wanted gears and exhaust

[Ghost]

Its all gonna come down to what you want with your car. Do you want a race car or street car? The 2 will take different ways to get to the same goal. Then theres budget, thats a whole other story.


well put :beer:

[Ghost]

I know.




HAHAHAHA!!!!!! Man, I'm cocky.

:mad: :bash: :censored: :director: :cussing: :HittingHe

[xxsn0blindxx]

What kind of times do you think are realistic for the mods I want to do? I would like to keep the vehicle a reliable, comfortable daily driver. If I went supercharged what would it take to get low 13s to high 12s? Would a supercharger with 3.73s, headers, x-pipe, u/d pulleys, plenum and intake do the trick? I definitely don't want to have to go through building up a shortblock. Are my goals unrealistic?

[Ghost]

What kind of times do you think are realistic for the mods I want to do? I would like to keep the vehicle a reliable, comfortable daily driver. If I went supercharged what would it take to get low 13s to high 12s? Would a supercharger with 3.73s, headers, x-pipe, u/d pulleys, plenum and intake do the trick? I definitely don't want to have to go through building up a shortblock. Are my goals unrealistic?


No, you can get it there you just need to pull some weight out,

I would say with your list and a small shot of n2o will get you mid 12s

[Nick 1]

If I went supercharged what would it take to get low 13s to high 12s? Would a supercharger with 3.73s, headers, x-pipe, u/d pulleys, plenum and intake do the trick? I definitely don't want to have to go through building up a shortblock. Are my goals unrealistic?

Traction.

Yes.

No.

The rearend is the weak link in your car. The stock axles are prone to break easy with traction. Must upgrade axles in your car to play safe. The biggest bang for your dollar is a rear gear upgrade.

[xxsn0blindxx]

Thanks for bearing with me guys. I know how annoying all these newbie questons can be. I'm realizing I'm making the annoying mistake of keyboard tuning and asking for a recipe on a silver platter. Once I start getting into modifying it I'm sure I will get a better idea of what to do next. I'm just trying to decide what the best long-term path is for what I want to do. Again, thanks for all the excellent advice.

[Nick 1]

Your Welcome. Ask all the questions you like.

That's what we do. Help each other out. :D

The heads on the mod cars are so much better than factory 5.0 heads

Mod motors respond to boost very well.

You could run 12's N/A, but it's easier to run the # with boost.

While your in 100% factory trim, except rear tires.

[Ghost]

Like the last 2 posts ask all the questions you need to

all of us here love to help, this is my first mod motor car and im still learning new things about it all the time

[xxsn0blindxx]

Nah, dont even worry about it dood. None of us knew anything before we asked the newbie questions. What kind of budget are you looking at, that can help us all out alot if we knew.


Well the budget is limited for the time being until I get my funds back up. I was originally wanting to stay N/A because 3k+ for a blower setup is more than I can afford and going N/A in stages seemed like a better option. Although now I'm thinking I might be better waiting and saving for an MPH mongoose kit or a KB setup.

[Ghost]

I'm gonna say, without a doubt, do the gears first. They will give you by far the biggest noticeable difference on the butt-o-meter.

I 2nd :thumbs_up