clunking noise

[buckysGT]

Maybe you guys can help me out. Everytime I let off the gas in first i hear this clunking noise. It also happens when I shift into second and third. It sounds like something is a loose. It also happens when i get on the gas in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. Any ideas what this could possible be? It sounds like the noise is coming from the back. Thank you for any info.

[1slo5.0]

Some possible causes would be bad u-joint, loose drive shaft bolts, pinion bearing, wear on ring and pinion, internal transmission damage......just to name a few.

[modularmike]

Sounds like a u-joint. I have the same problem.

[88Nightmare]

start with the simple things like u-joints. I had clunking in my foxbody mustang whenever I got on the gas in any gear except 5th, turned out to be u-joints. Start by replacing those. They are only like 10 bucks each or something like that. If that doesn't do it, try what Darrel said, look into rear end problems. If nothing is wrong there, then its probably your tranny. Maybe a tranny mount? Internal tranny problems maybe, hard to say. Just start troubleshootin

[67 Notch]

Don't "start by replacing those" because they are cheap. Yes, it very well could be a bad joint. But, why wouldn't you want to check the joint for play in it first-instead of just replacing it? Why replace parts if you don't have to? If you're going to do that you might as well pay to have someone look at the car. More than often it seems that people end up spending more money fixing it themselves-than they would have paid someone else to do it. Not to mention it usually takes a lot longer. I'm just saying if you're fixing it yourself, spend more time diagnosing to be sure. Don't listen to someone when they tell you to just replace parts cause they're cheap. They aren't sure, so why take their advice? If the joints are tight after you check them out-then you need to try and figure out more specifically where the noise is coming from,and go from there. If you're not sure where the noise is from maybe a friend could ride with you to give a different prospective. Good luck.

[88Nightmare]

I'd be willing to bet thats what it is. U-joints are a wear-item just like brakes and belts. Every mustang I had (ive owned 3 now) ended up needing u-joints at some point in their life. In fact, my foxbody I have now was clunking like a son of a gun even under light acceleration and there was a bad drivetrain vibration over 65 or 70mph. I took the driveshaft out and on my stock driveshaft I couldn't even move the u-joints by hand. I had a brand new FMS aluminum driveshaft complete with u-joints read to pop in and those u-joints moved around like butter, and my clunking is gone... so is my vibration. Depending upon how many miles are on his car and how hard he drives it, I'd be willing to bet its his u-joints.

[1slo5.0]

The point 67 Notch is trying to make is don't throw parts at the car and hope that they fix it. If you can't find play in the u-joints by hand they are either not bad or you don't know what your looking for. Being in the automotive business for many years, I've seen so many people just throw parts at cars and then get pissed when the car still has symptoms after $500 worth of parts. Then come to find out they take it in and it costs them $136. If you can't figure it out take it in to a reputable service center. Chances are it will save you time and money.

[quietflow]

Both 67Notch and Darrell hit it on the head guessing is only that, a guess. Take some time and figure it out:)

[88Nightmare]

hey I couldn't find play in my u-joints but changing them still solved the problem... anything that goes wrong on a car may not have the same symptoms as someone elses car but sometimes the solution is the same, thats all im saying.. just basing my reasoning off my past experiences

[Overdrive]

20 dollars is cheap insurance for drive line parts. Were only getting 1/2 of the story,
How many miles are on the clock? Have you ever replaced the joints? If the joints are bad replace them, its not that difficult.

[buckysGT]

Well I was able to get under the car and check the U joints. No luck there. Had some help trying to diagnose (sp?) the problem and we came to the conclusion that the noise is definately coming from the differential. From what it sounds like there is a grinding then a clunck. Can't really tell any more than that though. Its sitting at our mechanics right now and I should know something more by the end of the week. Depending on exactly what is wrong I might just redo the whole rearend. I am planning on eventually supercharging the car, my question is what what exactly would I need to get the car capable of handling the extra power so it won't break again. Also what brands of parts would be good to go with?

[88Nightmare]

is your car's rearend still all stock? What I plan on doing to mine is getting Strange engineering 31 spline hardened axels and a 31 spline eaton. The axel package comes with the 2 axels, wheel studs, and c-clip eliminators for just under $400 bucks.

[buckysGT]

My car is still all stock except it had 3.73 gears put in before i bought it. Are strange's parts good quality? I really have no idea what is good or bad when it comes to these types of parts. Also where can I get these from?

[Nick 1]

My car is still all stock except it had 3.73 gears put in before i bought it. Are strange's parts good quality? I really have no idea what is good or bad when it comes to these types of parts. Also where can I get these from?

Yes, their parts are good quality. You can buy from them directly if you like.

I'd put in @ least 31 spline axles & center if you plan on uping the power down the road. The phone # for Strange is (847) 663-1701. They are located in Morton Grove, IL. The web adress is www.strangeengineering.net. Hope this helps. :D

[clayton bigsby]

is your car's rearend still all stock? What I plan on doing to mine is getting Strange engineering 31 spline hardened axels and a 31 spline eaton. The axel package comes with the 2 axels, wheel studs, and c-clip eliminators for just under $400 bucks. im ordering the same kit this week exept im going with 33 spline,spool and 9" ends.

[88Nightmare]

im ordering the same kit this week exept im going with 33 spline,spool and 9" ends.

Nice. I think the 31 will be ok for me. If both kits are very close in price, I guess I might as well get the 33. Bucky, I saw these kits in Jegs. Grab a jegs catalog and flip to the mustang section, you should see them in driveline parts. :thumbs_up

[buckysGT]

I am going to check it out. The way I am seeing it right now is I might as do it the right way now rather then fixing it again down the road. Still am waiting to see what exactly is the problem though.

[88Nightmare]

I personally feel that if you are gonna do any engine mods, a rear end upgrade is definitely in order. Depending upon what you do, stock rear end internals may be able to handle it, but for how long is the big question. Plus if you are going to drive it hard and launch it hard if you go to GLD, it's just putting more and more wear on the rear end and so much stress that it was never totally designed to do. Sure mustangs are performance cars, but not race cars. Upgrading now is cheap insurance.

[buckysGT]

I think I definately will be upgrading. I see on strange eng. website they have the kits, is there anyting else besides the kit that I would need to upgrade the rearend?

[88Nightmare]

Maybe a Ratech bearing kit which can be found in Summit's catalog.