Installing alum. Driveshaft

[Fatstang]

Ok guys, i just scored my aluminum DS from www.lonestarperformance.com for $170. Never changed out one of these, let alone an u-joint. How easy/hard is it? What size are those four bolts that i need to remove? Will any fluid drip out? Anyone local can stop by and help maybe?

[Fatstang]

Alright, i tackling this right now as we speak. This would go a lot quicker with a ratchet instead of a boxed end wrench, but i'm down to my last bolt and it should come right out. Will fluid pour from the trany when i slide it out? I have the rear jacked up as high as i can get it. My nose touches the muffler so it's snug. Will the new DS have clearence? It looks like the stock DS is favoring the driver side more than the passenger side and i know this new DS is 3.5" dia, i just don't won't it hitting anything. Your guys thoughts?

[Ghost]

Alright, i tackling this right now as we speak. This would go a lot quicker with a ratchet instead of a boxed end wrench, but i'm down to my last bolt and it should come right out. Will fluid pour from the trany when i slide it out? I have the rear jacked up as high as i can get it. My nose touches the muffler so it's snug. Will the new DS have clearence? It looks like the stock DS is favoring the driver side more than the passenger side and i know this new DS is 3.5" dia, i just don't won't it hitting anything. Your guys thoughts?

it will be fine
just make sure that the rear is jacked up and if your worried about dripping fluid put a rag in the back of the trans

and yes the frpp driveshaft will fit no problem

sorry steve if my DAMN pay check would have come today then I would have had the gas money to come down. it has been such a pain since the company was sold they are still screwing things up(but its only been a month) :thud:

let me know when your done and how it goes :cool:

[Fatstang]

Wow! That was easy! All done! :banana:

No problem Tony, it's cool, i'll see ya by late afternoon on MMA day @ GLD :shifter:
Only spilled two drops that came off the yoke pulling out of the trans.

[Kool Rock Steady]

it's very easy but I know on a fox body the 4 bolts are 12mm 12pt bolts

[Greg@GLD]

Make sure you tightened those bolts nice and snug!

[Fatstang]

They still are 12mm, 12-point, it took forever wrenching those off.
I put a 8" pipe around the wrench, i torqued them down hard as i could until i was red in the face, also used some loctite.

[Greg@GLD]

Cool. Having the bolts loosen up would really ruin your day. ;)

[jefflouis]

is there a specific amount that you're supposed to torque those down to? or are you just supposed to really crank on them?

[BBATCO1]

RFT Specs..... (real F#$%'n Tight)

[Greg@GLD]

Jeff, FYI, there's a torque spec for every nut, bolt and fastener on your car.

Does any actually follow those specs to the letter? I dunno... :p

[Ghost]

Jeff, FYI, there's a torque spec for every nut, bolt and fastener on your car.

Does any actually follow those specs to the letter? I dunno... :p

70-90 as far as what the book says

[Fatstang]

We all know when a bolt is tight, you know when it's going to break. But how much ft/lbs is it, no one knows unless you use a Trq wrench. But the U-joints were in the way, i couldn't even get a 3/8's drive rachet in there, just a 6" box end wrench and an aluminum pipe for leverage. but those bolts were tough to break loose, i had to put the wrench on the bolt, then crawl out from under the car and go to the passenger side and stick my left leg under the car against the wrench to get those bolts turning. They were on "really fu@king tight." I'm not sure what Ford used, but there was some kind of harden plastic like sealant or loctite on those bolts when they came out. Not sure what exactly it was, but i used some "blue" loctite when installing them back in.

[jefflouis]

Jeff, FYI, there's a torque spec for every nut, bolt and fastener on your car.

Does any actually follow those specs to the letter? I dunno... :p

yeah, i realize that there is, but where do you find out these numbers? chiltons manual? (i dont have one of those) i can see on a driveshaft how you would want it to be at least that number if not cranked down to he-man specs though :cool:

[Greg@GLD]

I have the factory service manual for my Cobra, it has torque specs in a table, but it also lists them in each operation- as you read the individual procedures Jeff.

[jefflouis]

hmm......i wonder if that service cd that i got off ebay would have the specs. i can't remember for the life of me right now since the last time that i think i looked at it was when i blew up my first 7.5" rear end. :rolleyes:

[Tim]

We all know when a bolt is tight, you know when it's going to break. But how much ft/lbs is it, no one knows unless you use a Trq wrench. But the U-joints were in the way, i couldn't even get a 3/8's drive rachet in there, just a 6" box end wrench and an aluminum pipe for leverage. but those bolts were tough to break loose, i had to put the wrench on the bolt, then crawl out from under the car and go to the passenger side and stick my left leg under the car against the wrench to get those bolts turning. They were on "really fu@king tight." I'm not sure what Ford used, but there was some kind of harden plastic like sealant or loctite on those bolts when they came out. Not sure what exactly it was, but i used some "blue" loctite when installing them back in.

I used a 12 point socket with a swivel extension. Worked like a charm.