1995 GT Hard Starting

MCQEEN · 10-13-2013, 06:47 PM

I recently bought a 1995 GT 5.0 AODE. I bought it not running. After charging the battery, I checked fuel pressure. Key on engine off I have 39 psi and it holds. No fuel in the FPR hose either. I cranked the engine and it felt like it wanted to start but would sputter and die. I smelled fuel out the exhaust and assumed it was flooded. Crank during WOT and it sputtered a little and then just cranked. I stopped cranking, took my foot off the gas pedal hit the key and it started. Revved the engine several times and it sounds pretty good. I even drove it. But if you snap the throttle open really fast anything more than 1/4 throttle, it will cause the engine to bog. Smooth throttle application has no bog.

I have checked the TPS sweep and it is smooth. I cleaned the MAF. I then checked the IAC and found that it was shorted. I replaced the IAC. The problem still exists, but it seems a little easier to start. I have checked codes and there are none. I even did a cylinder balance test and it checked out ok. Ignition wires look newer along with the cap and rotor.

Is there anything else I should be looking for or checking? It is annoying that it won't start right up on it's own.

Any help will be appreciated.

Greg@GLD · 10-13-2013, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MCQEEN

I recently bought a 1995 GT 5.0 AODE. I bought it not running. After charging the battery, I checked fuel pressure. Key on engine off I have 39 psi and it holds. No fuel in the FPR hose either. I cranked the engine and it felt like it wanted to start but would sputter and die. I smelled fuel out the exhaust and assumed it was flooded. Crank during WOT and it sputtered a little and then just cranked. I stopped cranking, took my foot off the gas pedal hit the key and it started. Revved the engine several times and it sounds pretty good. I even drove it. But if you snap the throttle open really fast anything more than 1/4 throttle, it will cause the engine to bog. Smooth throttle application has no bog.

I have checked the TPS sweep and it is smooth. I cleaned the MAF. I then checked the IAC and found that it was shorted. I replaced the IAC. The problem still exists, but it seems a little easier to start. I have checked codes and there are none. I even did a cylinder balance test and it checked out ok. Ignition wires look newer along with the cap and rotor.

Is there anything else I should be looking for or checking? It is annoying that it won't start right up on it's own.

Any help will be appreciated.

The distributors on those motors are famous for issues. I have an extra billet steel unit you are welcome to try as a test if you want. Remember the TFI is external, not like a Fox body. I was having problems with my '94 awhile back and it was the dizzy...

MCQEEN · 10-13-2013, 07:54 PM

What kind of symptoms were you getting and is there anything to check for that would help diagnose that it is the distributor/TIF?

Greg@GLD · 10-13-2013, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MCQEEN

What kind of symptoms were you getting and is there anything to check for that would help diagnose that it is the distributor/TIF?

No start/hard start or cutting out and not starting....

screamin5oh · 10-14-2013, 05:27 PM

its called the pip sensor and they will cause all kinds of issues like that. replace the distributor before you do anything, even if thats not it you will cross one thing that will cause issues at one point anyway.

MCQEEN · 10-14-2013, 10:06 PM

Other forums are saying the same thing. The PIP is a common problem. It is next on my list to replace. I will keep you guys posted.

Thanks for the help.

MCQEEN · 11-08-2013, 11:17 PM

Just changed out the PIP tonight. Set the timing to about 12*. Still having the same issue. Not sure where else to look. Whatever the cause of the hard start, it must be why the engine wants to stall on quick opening of the throttle.
It seems to really have trouble when it sits for a while. Once I have it running, It starts a little easier but still has an extended crank.

I'm thinking I will have to go over the fuel system again. I'll put the fuel gauge on and try starting it.

Thought: Is it possible the EGR is causing this issue? Maybe it is not fully closed?

screamin5oh · 11-09-2013, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MCQEEN

Just changed out the PIP tonight. Set the timing to about 12*. Still having the same issue. Not sure where else to look. Whatever the cause of the hard start, it must be why the engine wants to stall on quick opening of the throttle.
It seems to really have trouble when it sits for a while. Once I have it running, It starts a little easier but still has an extended crank.

I'm thinking I will have to go over the fuel system again. I'll put the fuel gauge on and try starting it.

Thought: Is it possible the EGR is causing this issue? Maybe it is not fully closed?

what do you mean you changed the pip sensor, where did you get it from? you have to watch cause if you get a distributar from autozone or something like that they reman the distributars and dont check the pip sensor, is the problem excactly the same or does it have a diff issue?

MCQEEN · 11-09-2013, 10:32 PM

Brand new PIP made by Standard. I removed and disassembled the distributor to replace it. Put it back in and timed it. Same problem. Extended crank with a slow sputter and then die. More cranking attempts and eventually it starts and idles up and settles down and idles great. Engine will rev nicely and the car will drive down the road if you accelerate smoothly and gives good power. Snapping the throttle open quickly causes a hesitation/bog. If you stab the throttle almost WOT you can get the motor to hesitate/bog so bad it will stall the engine.

Dynotune · 11-09-2013, 10:38 PM

Have you tried unplugging the IAC while it's running? If it stalls after you unplug it than the blade isn't adjust right. As for hitting it and the bog it could be a bad MAF what brand is it?

10-13-2013, 06:47 PM	#1
MCQEEN MMA Premier Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kenosha Posts: 59	1995 GT Hard Starting I recently bought a 1995 GT 5.0 AODE. I bought it not running. After charging the battery, I checked fuel pressure. Key on engine off I have 39 psi and it holds. No fuel in the FPR hose either. I cranked the engine and it felt like it wanted to start but would sputter and die. I smelled fuel out the exhaust and assumed it was flooded. Crank during WOT and it sputtered a little and then just cranked. I stopped cranking, took my foot off the gas pedal hit the key and it started. Revved the engine several times and it sounds pretty good. I even drove it. But if you snap the throttle open really fast anything more than 1/4 throttle, it will cause the engine to bog. Smooth throttle application has no bog. I have checked the TPS sweep and it is smooth. I cleaned the MAF. I then checked the IAC and found that it was shorted. I replaced the IAC. The problem still exists, but it seems a little easier to start. I have checked codes and there are none. I even did a cylinder balance test and it checked out ok. Ignition wires look newer along with the cap and rotor. Is there anything else I should be looking for or checking? It is annoying that it won't start right up on it's own. Any help will be appreciated.

11-08-2013, 11:17 PM	#7
MCQEEN MMA Premier Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kenosha Posts: 59	Just changed out the PIP tonight. Set the timing to about 12. Still having the same issue. Not sure where else to look. Whatever the cause of the hard start, it must be why the engine wants to stall on quick opening of the throttle. It seems to really have trouble when it sits for a while. Once I have it running, It starts a little easier but still has an extended crank. I'm thinking I will have to go over the fuel system again. I'll put the fuel gauge on and try starting it. Thought: Is it possible the EGR is causing this issue? Maybe it is not fully closed? Last edited by MCQEEN; 11-08-2013 at 11:23 PM.*

11-09-2013, 10:38 PM	#10
Dynotune Premier Level MMA Advertiser/Sponsor Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Tuning outside the box Posts: 1,205 Images: 6	Have you tried unplugging the IAC while it's running? If it stalls after you unplug it than the blade isn't adjust right. As for hitting it and the bog it could be a bad MAF what brand is it? __________________ Vortech Superchargers for as little as $3,656.00 INSTALLED!!! Paxton Superchargers will start at $3759.00 INSTALLED!!! Authorized Dealer and installer of the following products: Vortech,Paxton, Kenne Bell, Dynamic Transmission, Diablo, SCT,UPR Products, Abaco, PMS systems and all Andersons Ford Products

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10-13-2013, 07:54 PM	#3
MCQEEN MMA Premier Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kenosha Posts: 59	What kind of symptoms were you getting and is there anything to check for that would help diagnose that it is the distributor/TIF?

10-14-2013, 05:27 PM	#5
screamin5oh MMA Premier Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: kewaskum Posts: 131	its called the pip sensor and they will cause all kinds of issues like that. replace the distributor before you do anything, even if thats not it you will cross one thing that will cause issues at one point anyway.

10-14-2013, 10:06 PM	#6
MCQEEN MMA Premier Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kenosha Posts: 59	Other forums are saying the same thing. The PIP is a common problem. It is next on my list to replace. I will keep you guys posted. Thanks for the help.

11-09-2013, 10:32 PM	#9
MCQEEN MMA Premier Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Kenosha Posts: 59	Brand new PIP made by Standard. I removed and disassembled the distributor to replace it. Put it back in and timed it. Same problem. Extended crank with a slow sputter and then die. More cranking attempts and eventually it starts and idles up and settles down and idles great. Engine will rev nicely and the car will drive down the road if you accelerate smoothly and gives good power. Snapping the throttle open quickly causes a hesitation/bog. If you stab the throttle almost WOT you can get the motor to hesitate/bog so bad it will stall the engine.